Last sunday I had the great opportunity to go to my first Thom Browne fashion show at La Galerie de Minéralogie in Le Jardin des Plantes, a place that I particulary appreciate.
The simple fact that the show takes place here confirmed my feelings about the come back of the semi precious stones in contemporary aesthetic.
It was really interesting to have a ringside seat at this very attempted event. Thom Browne who works for the Brooks Brothers Black Fleece label is today regarded as one of the best menswear designers in the world. His collection’s fashion shows are famous for their originality and their staging as you can see.
The fashion show rolled out in two sequences, the parade of guests (most of them are japanese people) and one for the designer.
Even though the collection looks absolutely crazy, we can find in it many details that match perfectly the current and future trends. Being, the pupil of Ralph Lauren, we can first notice one of Browne's permanent obsessions in the preppy and ivy menswear look.
Here the varsity jacket combined with dog "preppy" pattern and a grey flannel pants.
Here the famous lines that we found on the Ivy lettermans of the champions. These lines appear here on a sweater made with a kind of " Jpress shaggy dog" fabrics, very famous during the 60's.
The lines again but on a cardigan combined with a neck tie.
On the left, a beautiful kind of "go to hell" duck pattern.
A nice superposition of jackets with a classic attaché-case.
Here the inspiration of the american classic "fun shirt"with a smart simmetry of colors.
The trend of sado-masochist aesthetic that we saw a lot these recent times takes a proeminent place in the collection with the studded helmet and jacket, shiny leather etc…
There is also a real inspiration taken from the marine world. The Anchor on the polo neck sweater combinated with a peacoat even if this one has a studded collar.
To finish, there’s a very interesting approach from Thom Browne concerning the shape and the general attitude of his collection. The silhouettes reminds us of US football players wearing perfect protective pads but their allure reminds us of famous monsters in the likes of Frankenstein or Le Bossu.
I particulary enjoy this fashion show, the final was absolutely incredible as you can see during a few seconds here. All the models remained absolutely static during ten minutes, the time for me to take these close up pictures.
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