août 29, 2012

In Greg Noll forever.
It's not the first time that I'm talking about him because this guy is truly one of my idol.
Greg Noll was THE pioneer of the big wave surfing at the end of the 50's. He was part of the californians migration in Hawaï during the 60's and became of one the beach bums of Makaha. Noll was really famous for his nickname "The Bull", for his jailhouse trunk made by Hang Ten (not by Billabong), for his discovery of Waimea Bay on the North Shore and finally for his epic take off in December 1969 during a big storm which is considered by many surfers as the biggest wave ever taken in paddling.

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